With a long history, the world of horology has a rich heritage, bursting with technological advancements that changed the course of timekeeping and watchmaking. Since the first wristwatch was made in 1810, watchmaking has constantly evolved and introduced some phenomenal timepieces to the market. While the list of incredible watches is seemingly endless, there is undoubtedly a superior selection in terms of their contribution to the watchmaking industry and the wider world. If you are passionate about horology or an aspiring watchmaker, you want to make sure you get to know these 10 watches that changed the world.
Cartier Santos
The Cartier Santos was the first timepiece that was developed for aviation. Louis Cartier understood the challenges that his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont faced during flight and produced the Cartier Santos as the answer to all his problems. Named after famous Brazilian aviator Santos-Dumont, who built some of the first working fixed-wing aircraft, the Cartier Santos solved the issue of checking the time with two hands on the controls, a problem that plagued pilots using the pocket watch. As a result, the Cartier Santos was the very first men’s wristwatch and the very first pilot’s watch. It was worn by Santos-Dumont on all his subsequent flights and has a place in not only watchmaking history but aviation history too.
Swatch
Swatch is a manufacturer that redefined the entire landscape of timekeeping. In 1983, the first collection of 12 watches was introduced to the market and many consider this release to be the savior of Swiss watchmaking. As the Japanese watch industry began to dominate the market, the Swiss market was struggling. Famous for its range of loud and quirky watches, Swatch made a splash across the entire industry but a dash of color and design was not the only thing that changed the Swiss watch industry. Swatch utilized the quartz movement within a single-piece plastic case, making it cheap and easy to mass-produce timepieces that could compete with the likes of Seiko and Citizen. This made the timepieces highly affordable and kept up with the changing fashion trends of the 80s, targeting the youth market with watches marketed as fashion accessories. Previously just a timekeeping companion, Swatch made watches a statement piece and a talking point of your overall look. Swatch was an instant hit across the world and brought a new spark to Swiss watchmaking.
Seiko Astron
Released on Christmas Day 1969, the Seiko Astron was the very first quartz timepiece successfully released to the public. After a long development process, the Seiko Astron was the watch that completely transformed the industry and ultimately sparked the quartz crisis. A hundred times more accurate than a mechanical watch, the quartz movement completely shifted the course of watchmaking. Although the Swiss market had been working on quartz prototypes, this Japanese invention was the first one to make it into production and showcased that Japanese manufacturers are heavyweights in the watch industry. As the first released quartz timepiece, it was also one of the most expensive watches ever released but its success paved the way for quartz development and the production of more affordable quartz timepieces.
Breguet No. 169
In the modern watch industry, it is often considered that a manufacturer is not worthy if it does not feature a tourbillon in its collection. Developed and patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the Breguet No. 169 featured the very first tourbillon. This is a complication of high accuracy and regularly features in luxury timepieces. The pocket watch that the complication first featured in now resides at the British Museum and was one of the most significant developments in horological history. Over time, it has been imitated and improved to the tourbillon that watchmakers know today.
Zenith El Primero
Debuting in the same year as two other self-winding watches, there is much debate over whether the Zenith El Primero was in fact the first. However, Zenith viewed it as the first and named it to reflect this. What is not up for debate is that the Zenith El Primero was undoubtedly the first full rotor, high-beat chronograph with the self-winding movement. It was a first for mechanical timepieces, being able to measure time intervals of a tenth of a second. The other two self-winding watches released in 1969 have since gone out of production but the Zenith El Primero has stood the test of time.
Omega DeVille Co-axial
The Omega DeVille Co-axial goes against the grain of watchmaking and is an exception to the rule. While most mechanical watches feature a lever escapement, the Omega DeVille, as the name may suggest, features a co-axial escapement. Invented by English watchmaker George Daniels, this escapement broke the mould when it was released in 1999 and showed the watch industry that manufacturers can detour from tradition with a lot of success.
Casio G-Shock
An absolute game changer in the watch industry, the Casio G-Shock is a timepiece that broke away from tradition. While the timepiece is not overly valued by passionate watch enthusiasts, it is impossible to deny the impact that the Casio G-Shock had on the world. Invented as a solution to the fragility of mechanical and quartz timepieces, the G-Shock is a watch of superior strength and longevity. With a ten-year battery life, water resistance level of 10 bars and the ability to survive a 10-meter drop, the G-Shock is seriously tough. It also has a great story as the result of over 200 prototypes and is the only watch known to be tested by dropping it from a fourth-floor men’s bathroom. The market is now flooded with timepieces suitable for extreme activity with Casio G-Shock the one that highlighted the need and value of an ultra-tough sports watch. It also continues to be one of the most affordable extreme watches on the market and is on par with Swatch for its illuminating designs that defy fashion.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
While the Omega Seamaster and the Rolex Submariner are two of the most famous diving watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms exceeds both of them in legendary status and is regarded as the blueprint of dive watches. It was the very first dive watch invented for special forces and released for civilians. The idea for the timepiece was conceived by Captain Bob Maloubier in 1982, commander of the elite French combat diving unit ‘Nageurs de Combat’ (combat swimmers). The unit required a timepiece that was unquestionably accurate, ultra-tough and suitable for underwater sabotage operations which the CEO of Blancpain agreed to create. Following its invention, it was quickly adopted by special forces across the globe who had the same requirements for a durable dive watch. Most famously, it was worn by Jacques Cousteau in the renowned documentary, The Silent World. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms does not always get the credit it deserves but it changed the world and was the leader in the development of dive watches.
Omega Speedmaster
It can be argued that the Omega Speedmaster is the most famous watch on the planet and beyond. In 1962, it made its first journey to space and in 1965, the timepiece was certified to be the official watch for NASA’s space missions. The Speedmaster was the first watch that made it to the moon when worn by astronauts of Apollo 11, Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong, during NASA’s most famous mission, the first lunar landing in 1969. The following year, it made history again when it saved three astronauts from a near-fatality. When an oxygen tank exploded on Apollo 13, the astronauts were forced to abandon their mission and the Speedmaster was used to time the engine burn during their critical re-entry into Earth’s atmosphere. NASA awarded Omega with a silver Snoopy award for its role in saving the crew. Since then, its legacy has just evolved and it retains its reputation as the most iconic watch in the world. It has cemented its place in history while still being developed for the future.
Rolex GMT-Master
Renowned as one of the most desirable watches in the world, the Rolex GMT-Master is one of the most iconic watches that the world of watchmaking has ever seen. With vintage models breaking the six-figure mark on a regular basis at resale, it is amongst the most popular timepieces to invest in. Rolex was approached by Pan American Airways to design a pilot’s watch and after debuting in 1955, the GMT-Master has stayed true to its original complications and aesthetic. Designed to track multiple time zones during long-haul flights, this timepiece was a huge asset to aviation. Featuring a new movement with a 4th hand to indicate 24-hour time, it also boasts the iconic blue and red bezel that the timepiece is famous for, designed to offset the difference between time zones. For 29 years, the watch only received subtle updates but with a major upgrade in 1982 and the release of the Rolex GMT-Master II, the GMT-Master is a timepiece that continues to impress.
Photo Credits
Breguet – Wikimedia Creative Commons
All other photos are courtesy of the author
Guest Author Bio
Maz Panayi
I am Maz Panayi, co-founder of Watchmaking Tools, a global platform assisting watchmakers of the world navigate the intricacies of this delicate artistry. Over the last 5 years, I have explored the historic and creative sides of watchmaking – learning from an abundance of important mistakes along the way. I hope my experiences help make yours easier.
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