Ancient crypts, sci-fi towns, roof-top goats? George Burden takes stock of some of Canada’s most bizarre and beautiful tourist draws.
The weird and the wonderful, the interesting and the bizarre — in virtually every region of Canada you can find an activity or a sight that’ll set your awe button on overload, boggle your mind or simply leave you scratching your head in puzzled amazement. Some of these selections are either well-known though oddly neglected by those who have them in their own backyards, or so obscure that even the locals can’t give you directions. Regardless, this list will give the prospective trans-Canadian traveller an itinerary that few will duplicate.
Newfoundland and Labrador: Basque Whaling Galleons
Canada’s easternmost province boasts evidence of some of the earliest contact with European civilizations. While many have heard of the Viking settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows, few know that there were at least 20 thriving Basque whaling stations along the coast of Labrador at Red Bay in the 1500s. The Red Bay National Historic Site describes these settlements, which capitalized on the 16th century demand for whale oil, prized for its use in making medications, soaps and cosmetics. Three superbly preserved sunken Basque whaling galleons have been discovered and excavated in the waters off Red Bay, as well as a number of smaller fishing vessels. One vessel, the Red Bay Chalupa, has been meticulously preserved and is on display for visitors to enjoy. Info
If you happen to be driving down Nova Scotia’s Digby Neck peninsula through the town of Tiverton, you might want to stop and hike down to the shore of St. Mary’s Bay to have a look at the nine-metre high Balancing Rock. A columnar basaltic structure, or “sea stack,” dating from the Triassic Period, the vertical slab seems so precariously balanced that the mere touch of a hand might send it toppling down into the bay. Fact is, many have tried with no success, in some cases failing quite spectacularly, such as a fisherman who chained the monolith to his motor boat and then revved up to maximum speed. Info
New Brunswick: Pioneering Chocolatiers
How often do you get to visit an interesting museum AND gorge yourself on all the chocolate you can eat? The Ganong Chocolate Museum in St. Stephen, N.B., does just that with heaping platters of complimentary chocolates generously distributed throughout the facility, which is housed in the company’s original factory. Operations are now located in an ultra-modern factory just outside of town, with the exception of the exclusive hand-dipped line that you can watch being made in the museum. The exhibits provide a unique venue in which to travel through history, from the early origins of chocolate to modern times. James and Gilbert Ganong started making chocolates in 1873, and created the world’s first heart-shaped box of chocolates, not to mention their famous “chicken bones,” a cinnamon-flavoured pink-shelled candy with a chocolate centre. Info
P.E.I.: Birthplace of Confederation
It’s hard to believe that the concept of the nation known as Canada, now the second-largest country in the world by area, was born in our tiniest province. Yet Prince Edward Island, made up of less than 5,700-square kilometres, was the setting for the September 1, 1864, meeting of the Fathers of Confederation that set the stage for the foundation of our nation. Province House, Charlottetown was the setting, but don’t be surprised if, even today, you see Sir John A. Macdonald and other historic luminaries walking the halls and guiding visitors around. Costumed animators give tourists an authentic feel of what Canada was like… well, before there was a Canada. Info
One of la belle province’s most fascinating sites is the archaeological crypt of the Pointe-à-Callière Museum in Montreal. Located at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Little St. Pierre rivers, it is here that Father Barthélemy Vimont held a mass celebrating the founding of Montreal in 1642. In attendance were such luminaries as sieur de Maisonneuve Paul de Chomedey and nurse Jeanne Mance, who founded the city’s first hospital.
Wandering through the now below ground level landscape of the real Old Montreal, visitors get an eerie sense of being transported back in time, with old walls and floors and the dry bed of a long-gone river conveying a true, if ghost-like, feel of the 17th-century French colony. Info
Ontario: Primitive Art Expo
One of the most unusual places you’ll ever see in Ontario is the apartment of Toronto primitive art dealer Bill Jamieson. You won’t get to see his downtown apartment, however, without a personal invitation or being a part of a charitable event. Jamieson’s 6,000-square-foot loft apartment includes only one bedroom, as the rest of the space has been given over to his collection of tribal art, which at various times has included the mummy of Ramses I, a large selection of shrunken heads, decorated skulls of Tibetan monks and a 19th-century hearse converted into a saltwater aquarium. His annual Halloween party/Explorers Club meeting has become legendary with an eclectic group of guests ranging from eminent Canadian explorers to some of Toronto’s funkiest people. It’s worth seeking an invitation! Info
If you’re a fan of The Da Vinci Code don’t miss the Manitoba Legislative Building in Winnipeg. There is a multitude of symbols in and on this structure, many of a Masonic nature. For example, atop the building’s tower is the “Golden Boy,” a magnificently gilded 5.25-metre figure representing Hermes, the youthful Greek god who symbolized occult knowledge, with four figures representing earth, air, fire and water at his base. Guess what metal medieval alchemists believed resulted if you combined these four elements? (Hint: gold). Within the building’s rotunda the five rosettes, eight Corinthian columns and 13 Pompeian light fixtures represent the first number of the Fibonacci Sequence, also prominently featured in Dan Brown’s novels. For an in-depth look at the building’s symbolic significance, scholar Frank Albo offers tours this summer.
Saskatchewan: Angler’s Paradise
Northern Saskatchewan is one of the places for anglers to experience the thrill of a lifetime and enjoy the unspoiled beauty of Canada. And since 1978, Chemo Lodge has been providing memorable fishing trips on pristine Tazin Lake, accessible only by float plane, with its fully modern facilities. Because of Tazin Lake’s cold water, the northern pike and lake trout bite well year round. Info
For a quirky look at the province of Alberta you need go no further than the town of Vulcan. About an hour from both Calgary and Lethbridge, the town was not named for the home planet of Star Trek’s Mr. Spock. Rather, it received its moniker in 1910 from a Canadian Pacific Railroad survey with an interest in Roman mythology. Perched on the edge of the Canadian Badlands, however, you could be forgiven for thinking you were on an alien planet, with mushroom-shaped hoodoos and other bizarre rock formations dominating the landscape. Vulcan has capitalized on various Star Trek-themed attractions, crowned by the annual Spock Days/Galaxyfest, held this year from June 10 to 12. Though Vulcan’s 2,000 inhabitants generally don’t boast pointy ears, quite a few will be in evidence for the event. And you may find the locals are now prone to use Mr. Spock’s traditional salutation of “Live long and prosper.” Info
British Columbia: Rooftop Goats
If you find yourself in Coombs, B.C., on Vancouver Island you might want to drop by the Coombs Country Market. While the produce is fresh and plentiful, its unique feature is the authentic Norwegian sod roof complete with a herd of grazing goats. Kristian Graaten of Lillehammer, Norway, created the original market in the 1950s. The story goes that just before the Coombs Fall Fair, the grass was getting a bit long. Kristian’s son Larry suggested putting a few goats on the roof to “mow” their high-rise lawn. The rest is history. Besides being a great attraction for visitors, the green roof really is “green,” providing insulation in the winter and a cooling effect through evaporation in the summer. Info
Photo Credits
“Goat on Roof” Courtesy of The Ultimate Goat Fansite
“Balancing Rock” courtesy of Bay of Fundy
“Archaeological crypt, Pointe-à-Callière. Courtesy of Montréal Museum of Archeology and History
“Manitoba Legislative Buildings” Photographer Unknown
Previously Published on May 19, 2011 for The Medical Post
Tragically, Bill Jamieson was recently found dead in his apartment. A relatively young man, in his fifties, Bill will be sorely missed by his comrades in the Explorers Club as well as by his myriad of other friends from every walk of life.
Requiescat in pacem”