The ongoing story of a girl and her van on an epic journey across Canada.
Day 6-7 (May 15th-16th)
I’ve always wanted to go to Prince Rupert, British Columbia. It’s weird, I know. The few people I’ve met who are from there are all WHY! WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO GO THERE VOLUNTARILY? WHY!!?!?!?! And then they grab me by the shoulders and shake me until my head rolls.
Part of the reason is because when I was 19 and did a road trip I got close to Prince Rupert. I drove west along the Yellowhead highway as far as Terrace, and then headed east again. I can’t remember why I didn’t go all the way to the end of the road. It’s only an extra hour and a half away. Ever since then I’ve felt the need to go back, to complete the journey that I started so many years ago.
That, and I wrote something that takes place there, and I thought I should actually go at some point in my life. More to prove to myself that I’m not a total fake.
So, anyway…I decided this time, instead of driving all the way up from Vancouver (which is like a 20 hour drive or something) only to drive all the way back, it would make a lot more sense (and be a lot more fun) to take the ferry. It runs from Port Hardy (for those who don’t know, that’s at the northern tip of Vancouver island), through the inside passage, to Prince Rupert. Perfect! I get a lovely ferry ride along the amazing BC coast, and then finally get to see Prince Rupert.
This ferry takes about 20 hours and costs a single commuter $560. Yikes! But when else in my life will I ever take this ferry? Once-in-a-lifetime-opportunity is how I justified what is likely to be the single most expensive bill on my (hopefully epic) trip.
The ferry’s main level is half lounge seating and half cafeteria seating. The level above is mostly cabins (they cost extra), and a deck wrapping around most of the vessel. That was pretty much it for things to do. Wander from deck to cafeteria to lounge to deck to…well, you get the idea.
I’m not sure what I expected in the way of entertainment. But the last long ferry I was on (nine hours from France to England) had bars, shopping, even a movie theatre. Granted, you can fit the entire population of Canada into the back pocket of Europe and still have room for your wallet. But I thought this trip would have something to do. An arcade, maybe? Is that too much to ask?
Yes. It is.
I spent most of my time reading or staring at the islands we cruised past. I turned 31 on this trip, and bought myself a beer as close to midnight as possible (yes, this ferry serves beer! But only until 11pm).
The vehicle deck was sealed off, so I sadly couldn’t sleep in the nice bed I had made up in my van. For those of us who couldn’t bring ourselves to pay any more money on this insanely expensive voyage, it was the lounge chairs, or sleeping on the floor. I chose the latter, and brought up my sleeping bag and pillow. Considering the hard sleeping surface and harsh florescent lights, I actually slept quite well. And woke up way more sober than I usually do on my birthday. So that’s one good thing about celebrating your birthday alone on a boat.
All in all I have to say that the experience was underwhelming. I think for those of you who have never taken a ferry on the West Coast it would be amazing. But for those of us who have taken the Victoria to Vancouver ferry a billion times, it was nothing that new. It’s pretty much that route, but eight times longer, with snow-capped mountains inserted in the view and 99% less screaming kids.
Seriously, the Northern Adventure (my steadfast craft’s name) was practically deserted. It was spooky. I never saw more than 10 people at a time, and that’s including staff. I think it would be a great setting for a horror movie. Ferry set adrift, crew disappears, psycho guy with a hook hand on the loose. Any backers?
We arrived in Prince Rupert the next day at 2pm. I had been planning on spending a day or two there, but a drive through town changed my mind. Every second store was boarded up, the streets were filthy, and the only people on the streets were very young girls holding very young babies, or people stumbling along like the undead. (Maybe I was suffering from distorted ferry-vision, as a few people I’ve talked to since assure me that PR is a lovely place with several businesses that are actually open.) So onward I drove, until I landed in Terrace. Cleaner, prettier, with residents who don’t look like zombies. Sold!
And now I understand why all those people shook me when I mentioned my desire to head to Prince Rupert. You were right, I was wrong. You’re smart, I’m dumb. You’re incredibly good-looking, I’m mangy and gross. Friends again?
PS: Yes, I did go to the stern, spread my arms wide, and yell “I’M ON A BOAT!” Andy Samberg would be proud.
(Granny, I take no responsibility for the nasty language in this video. But I do admit to finding it amusing!)
Photo Credits
All photos by Sarah Gignac
This article was first published on Raggedy Threads in May 2010.
I took that ferry once and also slept on the floor underneath a cafeteria table. It was so stormy overnight I honestly thought we were going to capsize! Like, the boat rocked so hard it felt like we went sideways.
I enjoyed the experience though. But, like you said, this was before I lived on Vancouver island so it was all very exciting and new.
How could you possibly enjoy being rocked that hard?!?!? I think that would have instilled a permanent fear of ferries in me.