I lived, worked and travelled around in the Kootenays for many years. The region is located in the southeastern corner of British Columbia. It stretches west to Midway, north to Revelstoke, and is bordered on the east by Alberta and the south by the USA. I crisscrossed this area of the province, up, down and around that area, until I became intimately familiar with the roads, restaurants, and resting places.
Here’s a good tip for you when you are travelling around Small Town, Anywhere (when you think about it, that’s most of North America and likely several other continents with which I am not familiar). Use the Bed & Breakfast establishments. They have nicer bedding and are a lot quieter than that hotel room above the bar. They have a pristine non-smoking environments and provide a great breakfasts, with company if you wish — all at a price usually lower than the local hotel or motel.
After living in the Kootenays, I got transferred to Victoria, beyond the west coast on Vancouver Island. As lovely as it was back in the Kootenays, I just hadn’t been back there other than by plane, so when the opportunity came up, I thought, “It’s Fall. It’ll be a nice drive.” I decided to fly part way across the province and rent a car to continue on to my friend’s new house in Kimberley.
It all seemed a bit rushed to get going that day. I got up earlier than I needed to so I could have a coffee with a friend I hadn’t seen in awhile, so right to the end I was busy. And I must admit I thought, What the heck was I thinking? It would be worth it to have paid the extra $300 and just flown in. What a stupid idea and on and on in that vein.
I got the rental and headed out of town towards familiar country, and it was a drag. I managed to take a wrong turn, then couldn’t get back to where I was without going way around to the next traffic light. Then I followed big trucks and stopped for construction several times. It seemed to take forever for me to get out of second gear and on my way. But then. Ah…but then…
I was driving through the beautiful south-eastern corner of British Columbia. I rolled the window down and I could smell the mountain air. What a treat! Alders gone golden formed jewels in the lush deep green crown of the Kootenay Mountains. The red-orange of autumn Sumac trees spotted the mountainside with bonfires. I gave the rental a workout going up thousands of feet, and there, waiting to meet me once again were the rock people!
Oh, why didn’t I stop to get a photo for you? The rock people are prevalent throughout the West Kootenays, from the Nancy Green Summit near Trail, through Castlegar, Nelson and the Salmo-Creston pass. Their faces are formed in the shale by pieces sluffing off here and there, leaving deep-set dark eyes, high, chiseled cheekbones and broad, proud noses. They fascinate me.
To be reacquainted with them after this long absence was an absolute joy. They had waited for my return and I was delighted to see them along the road, showing the way, reminding me of the area’s First Nations roots and geographic history.
What a trip! It was worth every extra hour of travel and whatever rush it took to accomplish it.
Photo Credits
Photos © Peg Ainsley. All Rights Reserved.
I came across your site looking for something else and was shocked to discover that the person I knew LONG LONG AGO was cheerfully still writing and enjoying life. We shared a lot of adventures working in the East Kootenays. I haven’t been back for many years, although we do drive through there to see our best friends in Sparwood every so often, and my sister (who passed away recently) and her husband have a home in Hosmer. I wish you the very best. Take care