Sometimes small villages become the centre of the world; famous (and not so famous) people return year after year in pursuit of whatever that place has to offer. That happened in Wedgeport, Nova Scotia, for about 40 years — and it’s happening again.
In the past, the draw was the mighty tuna. Wedgeport was recognised as the Sports Tuna Fishing Capital of the World. President Franklin Roosevelt, Amelia Earhart, Ernest Hemingway and many others boarded Cape Island boats and cast their rods in hopes of landing a giant fish.
The tuna matches started in 1937. With the exception of the war years, teams from Argentina, Australia, Japan, the United States, Cuba and Britain (naming only a few) travelled here to fish. Alas, in the mid 70s the tuna disappeared and the tournament was discontinued. But the good news is that Wedgeport is once again hosting a tuna tournament every August. Although it takes a few hours to get to the fishing grounds (instead of a few minutes as in the olden days), the revitalized tuna tournament is a huge success story and anyone can enter.
A team consists of six people and you head out to fish for four days. Last year an all-women’s team took part. They were teased about doing yoga to get centered and then dancing a victory jig after landing their tuna, but they came in second.
Aside from the captain’s send off on day one, there’s a family night, kid’s fishing derby, tuna pageant, and lots of great food and entertainment throughout the week. The tournament culminates with the last day’s weigh-in and closing ceremonies.
The oldest deeds refer to this area as Chebec, a Native term meaning “a narrow passage of water.” Gradually, it became Bas-de-Tousquet, then Tusket Wedge. In 1910, it became the town of Wedgeport. The community voted to de-incorporate its status as a town in 1947 because the tax base was too small to support its obligations, but it remains a vibrant Acadian village.
Much of the life in the community revolves around lobster fishing, which is an industry with deep roots, especially when it comes to the Tusket Islands. Some say there are 365—one for every day of the year. Many have intriguing names like Murder Island, Turpentine and Candlebox. Each island has its story, but the islands’ strength and character comes from the fishery.
There was a day when this archipelago teemed with families. As the late 1800’s turned into a new century, 98 percent of lobsters sold in Nova Scotia were canned and these islands had dozens of canneries. Some islands, like Deep Cove, had their own barber, tanner, forger, cobbler, post office — even a pool hall. Many shanties still exist today and the fishermen from Wedgeport use the islands as home base during lobster season.
A day on the Tusket Islands is magical and can include bird watching, learning about local lore and — if you are lucky — a feed of steamed lobsters. The trick is to find a lobster pound and a captain to take you on an excursion. The best place to start is at the Wedgeport Sport Tuna Fishing Museum and Interpretive Centre.
Aside from housing information about the Tusket Islands and early Acadian life in the community, the museum also features memorabilia, artifacts, photos, trophies — even a mock tuna boat — related to the days when Wedgeport was the tuna fishing capital of the world.
There is also a café located in the same building. It’s not fancy, but fishermen and residents gather here to yarn every morning at 6 a.m. For sure it’s the best place to find someone to take you to the islands and a great place to find out what makes the community tick. So get up with the sun and join the locals for coffee. If you can line up a trip to the islands, you’ll need about four hours or more.
One of the funniest stories is about one of the islands called Outer Bald. Russell Arundel bought it in the late 30s and proclaimed it to be a separate state with its own currency and constitution. He called it Outer Baldonia and declared that fishermen here had the right of freedom from questions, nagging, shaving, women, taxes and politics — to name just a few.
Arundel wrote official letters to mapmakers and the National Geographic Society, commanding them to include the Principality of Outer Baldonia in future maps of North America. He also acquired a listing in the Washington telephone book as an embassy, and Russia denounced the new nation.
Eventually, the fabrication made up by friends over a few bottles of bourbon was uncovered. The international joke left Washington scratching its head, Russia furious, and the local fishermen laughing. It’s a hilarious (and true) story.
So there you have it — a touch of Acadian culture. But watch out! The Acadian joie-de-vivre is catching. For travel information, check out Yarmouth & Acadian Shores.
Photo Credits
“Heyday of fishing tuna in Wedgeport during the 50s” © Wedgeport Sport Tuna Fishing Museum and Interpretive Centre
“Enjoying a feed of lobsters is just one of the many pleasures when visiting the Tusket Islands” © Sandra Phinney
“Tusket Islands Wharf and Fishing Shanty” © Sandra Phinney
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