Throughout history, Vikings have always had a sense of restlessness and adventure. Norway based Viking Cruise Line has tapped into that urge for travel and has become the major player in river cruises on European waterways. Most guests from North America fly into the town or city where one of Viking’s Longboats awaits them, and leave for home on disembarkation. Our cruise was different.
Viking Idi on the Moselle
Our Viking itinerary started in Paris and ended in Prague but there was no sailing on France’s Seine River or the Czech Republic’s Moldau. Instead, guests were treated to two days in Paris and another two days in Prague, both at fine hotels with complimentary city tours provided.
The view from the Nowlan’s Paris hotel.
The actual river cruise only began on Day 3. After a long, four hour bus ride including a quick visit through Luxembourg we finally boarded the Viking Idi, docked along the Moselle River, in Germany’s oldest city, Trier. A highlight was the Porta Nigra City Gate dating from the 2nd century AD. It’s considered the best preserved Roman gate in the world.
Viking guide and Trier City Gate from 2 AD
The 190 passenger Viking Idi, one of 80 Longships in the company’s extensive river cruise fleet, is 10 years old but seemed to be very well maintained. Like most Longboats it’s 135 meters long and 11 meters wide with a cordial crew of 53. It’s a tight fit in the many locks in the rivers. The staff was attentive and professional during all seven days as we sailed the Moselle, Rhine and Main Rivers. Rooms seemed a bit small (ours, on the second deck, was 205 square feet including a tiny, two chair balcony) but well planned and functional with floor to ceiling windows, both U.S. and European electric outlets, excellent lighting and air conditioning, even a heated bathroom floor and fog free mirrors. Fresh fruit in our room was replenished daily. Slippers were provided but in only one size. Too small for John; too big for Sandra. Deck 3 includes 275 square feet junior suites and two Explorer suites, each 445 square feet. All rooms have a fridge but only the pricier third deck has fridges stocked with drinks.
Compact but comfortably stateroom with small balcony
The lounge (forward on Deck 3) is used for all briefings and entertainment. In addition to a resident pianist, several local musical acts, even a glass blower, were brought aboard in the evening. With a full ship the lounge can get very crowded with poor sight lines for many guests.
A variety of evening entertainments
The Viking Idi’s Restaurant (forward on Deck 2) can accommodate all guests with tables for six or eight. The arrangement encourages conversation with fellow guests, primarily American but with a sprinkling of Canadian and British. A small, optional dining area called Aquavit, near the bow on Deck 3, does have tables for two or four but the menu is identical. As on most cruise ships, an “always available” menu – salmon, chicken, steak – is popular but most guests chose the regional specialties like zwiebelrostbraten (braised beef) or wienerschnitzel, accompanied by complimentary Moselle or Rhine wines. Regular or non-alcoholic beer is also available but Viking does not yet stock some of the better non-alcohol wines. Overall, we were very impressed with the quality and variety of the cuisine.
-
- Local German vintages poured at lunch and dinner
-
- The Restaurant with tables for six or eight
Most guests chose this 12 day Viking itinerary because it included four countries – France, Luxembourg, Germany and the Czech Republic – and three European river systems. A few complained to us about the long bus rides from Paris and to Prague but it was convenient to fly into and out of major cities. Similar to other Viking river cruises, the guests were generally well educated, often retired with an average age of 65 to 70.
After leaving Trier we sailed downstream on the Moselle, enveloped by what appeared to be endless, steep riverbanks full of vineyards. Every available acre on the south facing hills was covered by grape vines.
Vineyards along the Moselle
The Moselle soon joined the even wider and busier Rhine where we turned upriver for a glorious afternoon of top deck relaxing as about 20 ancient castles, some well preserved and some in ruins, crowned steep hills on both sides of the ship.
Towns and Castles on the beautiful Rhine River
Comfortable Viking busses took guests on a full day tour of Heidelberg, home of Germany’s oldest university. In addition to stunning views of the town from the 12th century Heidelberg Castle, lunch for all was arranged in a large beer hall with university students at each table anxious to improve their English. A unique opportunity for international friendship.
A long but comfortable four hour Viking bus ride to the Longboat
Our second last day on Viking Idi was among the most memorable. We took the optional, extra cost tour to Rothenburg, considered the best preserved medieval town in Germany. The 2.4 kilometre wall connects five gates with 13th to 16th century guard towers. Our included lunch was traditional stuffed cabbage rolls. Afterwards we stopped in Wurzburg for a tour of the opulent Bishops’ Residenz. In the 1700s, prince-bishops wielded enormous power and wealth so one of them decided a grand palace would be an appropriate recognition of his importance. It includes the largest ceiling fresco in the world and dazzling rooms that rival Versailles.
Bishops’ Residenz ceiling in Wurzburg
Overnight we left the mighty Rhine and joined the more tranquil Main River towards our final port, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town of Bamberg. Now the northern terminus of the Main-Danube Canal, Bamberg was the center of the Holy Roman Empire in the 11th century. The charming town is best known for its Rathaus (Town Hall), built in the middle of a bridge in the 1400s (now a museum). We enjoyed Bamberg’s unique (and very tasty) smoky beer.
Old City Hall in Bamberg
In Bamberg all Viking guests disembarked the ship and boarded buses for the four hour drive to Prague. Our one break enroute was in the Bavarian city of Nuremberg, site of the emotional Nuremberg Trials, where high profile Nazis leaned their fate at the end of World War 2. Nuremberg was chosen for the trials because it was the site of the most massive Nazi rallies where Hitler gave rousing speeches to adoring crowds. That huge field and stadium was our first stop where an excellent tour guide told us about the rallies and their impact. Then we headed for the market square for lunch and a final taste of excellent German bratwurst and beer.
Hitler’s Rally Stadium in Nuremberg
Two days in Prague, including a walking tour of its Old Town and a chance to sample traditional dumplings stuffed with smoked ham and smothered with onion and cabbage, proved to be a fitting end to an excellent twelve days with Viking. With the long bus rides at both ends of the tour it’s not for everyone. But if a touch of Viking restlessness and love of travel inspires you, the chance to experience four countries, three major rivers, scores of castles and many UNESCO World Heritage sites, all under the care of Europe’s most experienced river cruise line, makes the adventure very worthwhile.
Here are a few more photos from our journey. Click for larger images.
-
- Town view from Heidelberg Castle
-
- Sandra relaxes on balcony with Viking’s daily programme
-
- Heading up the Rhine
-
- Viking Idi officers welcome new guests
-
- Medieval Rothenburg
-
- Lunch with university students at Heidelberg beer hall
Photo Credits
All Photos by John and Sandra Nowlan – All Rights Reserved
Please Share Your Thoughts - Leave A Comment!