To seafaring Maritimers of yesteryear the word “CAT” conjured images of a fiendish form of nine-stranded nautical punishment. Today, instead, it means a fast, ultra-modern way to travel back and forth from Maine to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, bypassing many hours of highway driving.*
For this reason a couple of years ago my buddy Mark and I found ourselves skimming the waves in Bay Ferries’ huge Aussie-built catamaran at speeds in excess of forty knots. We were on our way to Portland for some sightseeing and white water rafting on Maine’s Kennebec River. While aboard, the vessel’s skipper, Captain Dave Doucet, invited us to the bridge. Far above the ocean’s surface and surrounded by banks of high tech controls, the ambiance was more like that of a jumbo jet’s cockpit. First mate Jim Macneil pointed out a humpback whale spouting off to starboard, a common sight in these waters.
Portland
In less than six hours we were driving off the ferry in downtown Portland bound for the Portland Harbor Hotel, a posh Four Diamond hotel in the heart of the city’s rejuvenated waterfront area. From here we headed out for an evening exploring some of the local watering holes including one intriguingly named “Three Dollar Deweys” (dating from the city’s bawdier days, as in “one dollar lookeys, two dollar feeleys…”) Local pubs are well stocked with micro-brewery offerings ranging from the traditional beers to brews based on blueberries and even pumpkin spice.
The next morning, after breakfasting in the Portland Harbor’s rather striking gardens, Mark and I headed for Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s home. The American poet’s home for his first fifteen years of life and frequently visited in his later years, the house retains most of the furniture and artifacts from Longfellow’s childhood, including the table on which he penned his first poem. One of Longfellow’s most famous epics “Evangeline”, describing the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia, can’t help but strike a chord in the heart of any Canadian reader.
After visiting Longfellow’s home, we embarked on a tour of the town by land and sea in the amphibious “Duck”, a rather awkward looking vehicle equally at home on the water and in the street. We passed the former headquarters of the Grand Trunk Railroad, which once served traffic from Portland to Sarnia, Ontario and later played a crucial role in the formation of Canada’s first transcontinental rail system. Much like Halifax Harbor, the islands of Portland’s Casco Bay are studded with eighteenth century fortifications. Later we were to get a closer look at these islands aboard one of Portland Schooner Companies two-masted ships, “manned” by an all woman crew. Captain Sue ably navigated out to renowned Cape Elizabeth Lighthouse. Then, she daringly offered me the helm. Though of a nautical family, I’m a bit of land lubber, but somehow guided us back to port without running aground or foundering!
It was now time to head north to the Forks area for some rafting. I regretted having to leave so soon, and now understood why Frommer’s Travel Guide rated the city as one of its top twelve travel destinations in 2007.
Rafting on the Kennebec River
Our next destination was Bingham, a small town a few hours from the Quebec border, perched on the Kennebec River and base camp for Jim Murton’s outfit, North Country Rivers. On arrival Jim showed us around his camp and explained that our four hour trip would be a special one, as the hydro-electric dam above the rapids was upping its outflow to an impressive 8,500 CFS (cubic feet per second). We would be braving class two to four rapids (based on a scale of one to six) in rafts powered with nothing but our paddles. Our guide, Andy, soon whipped our group of six into shape with a “crash” course in rafting etiquette and safety, then we headed upriver and carried our raft down steep ramps to just below the dam.
The Kennebec churned and roiled, promising an adrenaline rush not to be forgotten. Besides Andy, Mark and me, our companions included Wayne and his son John, who was celebrating his eighteenth birthday on the rapids, and a young couple, Rebecca and Jim. We all grasped our paddles as Andy pushed off and surged into the rowdy waves of the Kennebec.
The shores of the river are completely undeveloped and abound with wildlife. Our attention in the upper reaches of the Kennebec, however, were firmly focused on the churning waves and chop we had to navigate. We were not mere passengers. Rafters must all paddle like mad at appropriate times to allow enough momentum to pass through the rapids. If not the rafts can flip and occupants can get a real “hands-on” feel for what class four rapids are like. Fortunately injuries are rare as guides must follow a strict licensing process with safety concerns foremost.
After we passed our first set of rapids I naively asked Andy if they were class four. “Oh no,” Andy replied. “Those were barely class three. Wait till we get to Maytag.” An ominous hush fell over our group as we rounded a bend and looked at the approaching frothy, roiling course of water.
“That’s Maytag.”
The raft picked up speed and Andy shouted orders over the deep rumbling of tortured water. We whipsawed up and down, shimmied and bucked as we headed directly for the solid wall of H2O towering over us. Suddenly we were into the middle of Maytag and I fully understood how it got its name. Holding onto the safety ropes I started to think sympathetically of the Brahma bull riders at the Calgary stampede. With a wild pitch Rebecca and I went flying backwards for what would have been an interesting swim, when my buddy Mark reached out and drew us back in the nick of time. We had survived the worst of Maytag.
“You should see it at 15,000 CFS,” said Andy, grinning.
The Kennebec settled down in its lower reaches to a more sensible pace and we were able to relax and enjoy the scenery and wildlife. An osprey nesting on the river looked down as we pulled to the bank for a sojourn in a small cove graced by a waterfall. Afterwards we stopped for a tasty shore lunch of steak or chicken and the fixings. Funny how sheer terror works up an appetite! Then it was time for a more leisurely float back to our departure point for base camp. Mark and I had enjoyed a superb adrenaline rush, but it was reassuring to know that Maine’s three rafting rivers (the other two being the Dead and Penobscot) offer trips catering to any level of skill and stamina. Depending on the stretch of river and water levels, even families can enjoy these excursions.
Back at base camp Mark and I sidled up to the bar and enjoyed a few blueberry ales in frosted mugs as we compared notes with our companions on the days’ rafting. Would we do it again? You bet.
Bar Harbor
The next morning we got an early start for Bar Harbor, where we planned to catch the CAT back to Nova Scotia. We headed east through a wilderness area where visitors sometimes spot moose, then southeast through Bangor and onward to the coast passing many picturesque towns populated with friendly folks and Victorian houses. Bar Harbor is located on Mount Desert Island, the third largest island on the eastern seaboard of the United States. It is dominated by Mount Cadillac, which at 1530 feet is the highest peak on the American east coast, located in Acadia National Park. The French explorer for whom the peak was named went on to found Detroit. General Motors went on to immortalize his name in steel and chrome. Appropriately, we were able to drive to the top for a panoramic view of the island and the city of Bar Harbor, then proceeded on through the park. Most of its 41,000 acres were donated by the wealthy elite who summered here in the first half of the twentieth century. Sadly most of their opulent mansions were burned in the huge fire of 1947. The lands and the carriage roads established by the Rockefeller family, however, remain for visitors to enjoy.
Exiting the park, we arrived at Bar Harbor and checked into the ocean front Regency Hotel, located next door to Bay Ferries’ terminal. Bar Harbor is just the right size for exploring on foot. This historic city has retained much of its unique architecture and is a great spot to dine, shop for gifts and gaze at tall ships moored along the waterfront. Of course it’s also a great base for those who wish to hike and explore nearby Acadia National Park. After a supper of Maine lobster I went for a swim in the Regency’s large heated pool. Through the mist hovering over the pool I gazed up at a clear starlit sky and thought to myself that holidays don’t get much better.
The next morning found us boarding the CAT for a three-and-a-half hour trip back to Nova Scotia, arriving in plenty of time for lunch.
With the Canadian dollar at near parity with the American dollar, Maine provides good travel value and is an easy drive for many Canadians in Ontario, Quebec and the Maritimes. Best of all, the state has something to offer for everyone, from the history buff to the bargain shopper, right up to the crazed adrenaline junkies who can even do a package that offers parachuting and white water rafting all in one day. You decide.
* The Cat is temporarily out of service at present.
IF YOU GO…
North Country Rivers
toll free 800-348-8871
fax 207-672-4176
Photo Credits
All Photos Are © George Burden – All Rights Reserved
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