Dear Life As A Human:
We had had only one criterion for our holiday: an ocean view. So I simply searched the internet for all cottages that met this criterion and then booked the one at the best rate, which happened to be in a small fishing town called Jonesport.
We had never heard of Jonesport before, and neither had anyone else we knew. But we set off on our merry way nonetheless. After a long drive (granted even a short drive is a long one when you have two children in the car), we arrived to our rental.
All four of us piled out of the car and immediately rushed toward the ocean. Did it have an ocean view? Yes; sweet success.
For the next couple of days, we then happily set about doing nothing but walking on the beach and staring at the ocean. After a day or so, we needed to head into town to stock up on some basic grocery items.
“Town” seemed like an overstatement though. There was a church, an ATM machine, a gas station and a small general store for groceries. I eagerly noted that there was a café, but it didn’t seem open.
I started to wonder what it would be like to be a local here in Jonesport. When you’re on holiday, you don’t mind staring out into space and snoozing away the day, barely moving more than a few feet from your house. But could I, a city-girl, live without the buzz of theatre, cinema, clothing stores and – *gasp* – shoe stores?
As I drove about, I noticed that I mostly saw men in pick-up trucks. Lobster pots could be seen stacked about houses, barely standing after years of clear neglect. There was a certain beauty in the ramshackle nature of the place. But it also felt slightly forlorn.
Wikipedia tells me that the per capita income for the town was $14,135 in the 2000 census. That’s not much to live on. But maybe one doesn’t need that much when you’re surrounded with a rugged, gorgeous natural landscape to occupy you?
We drove to Beals Island, where we had heard there was a nature conservancy with hiking trails. The parking lot was empty. And there were no maps at its entrance to indicate the length or even number of trails available. We set off anyhow. The smell of blueberry bushes wafted around us as my daughter rambled on about Pokemon and my son hummed his own little tunes. My husband and I, silent in our own thoughts.
I was thinking about the life of a fisherman. Is it lonely? Or does the lack of commercial entertainment encourage more casual beers over dinners? In the suburbs, it’s fairly commonplace that one might not know their neighbours. But here — where there are less than 600 households in total – how could you not know, or care, about your neighbour? As a complete outsider, I can do nothing but speculate.
What do you think: Does the fisherman get lonely or does the fisherman seek out this lifestyle precisely for its solitude?
We’re having a grand ol’ time. Missing you, but will send another postcard soon.
Julie and family
Photo Credit
“Jonesport” Wikimedia Commons
Julie:
My son bought a little house in Jonesport about four years ago with beautiful views of the Moosabec Reach. He bought it so I would have something to do until I die – got it for the price of a good pick-up truck. This house (or shack) has two rooms down and two attic-type rooms up. It had no electricity, no plumbing, no septic system, no stairway to the second floor, needed new windows and a new roof.- it now has all of these things and a refrigerator and the down-stairs is insulated and generally has knotty pine walls and hardwood floors. We were able to get a permit for a holding tank and we now have a real flushing comode instead of the incinerating kind.
My neighbors are beautiful people – most are lobster fishermen. Most don’t know it, but there are two kinds of lobster fishermen at Jonesport:: those that fish near the mainland for about four monthsand those that fish the outside waters an additional eight months; comes to year-round. Those that only fish the inside waters, i.e., Moosabec Reach and other near inland river mouthsand bays probably make less than $20,000/yr, but they seem to love their work and their life. The last two summers have really been tough because they have been paid only about $2 a pound for their catch and that aint much.
Well I am looking forward to the coming summer – going to finish one of the upstairs rooms with hardwood and knotty pine. Can’t use drywall and let it get cold in the winter.
Going to try to go fishing some this summer. I have my Ozarks canoe in Maine – it should do OK: Charlie
I tried fishing a couple of time when I was a kid and I’m sure fishermen wants the loneliness. I didn’t like it much though that’s why I usually opt for sailing or windsurfing when I’m by the seaside, fits me better.
Maine looks beautiful… I have to travel to the U.S more now that I’m Canadian!
Zhu – Yes, you’ll definitely need to check out this corner of the world with your newly minted passport! We traveled from Maine south down to Cape Cod as well. Really special places.
Looks like a beautiful place and wonderfully relaxing. To answer your question – I think fishermen seek out this lifestyle!
Jacqueline … yeah, that’s what I’m thinking too. I do recommend Jonesport! We loved our stay.
I have been collecting papers/documents/poetry/writings about JONESPORT- my Dad spent his boyhood summers there- becoming one with nature/mud/rowboats/blueberries and an occasional pie he would ‘borrow’ from his mother’s rack of cooling pies…think about Jonesport from a mother or woman’s perspective…one of the only places left on earth where your child can roam freely and not get into too much trouble (at least not the same kind of city trouble). It is tragic that the young people leave…my Dad did but that was to join the Marines. We live five hours away and only get ‘down’ there once a year. I cannot answer why- but when we did venture there last time with my Dad he was dismayed at all the changes…too many for him. But the food was still good- plain and simple but fresh. The people were sort-of friendly until they learned who we were and then! they could not do enough for us!
“Norton…you’re little Davey Norton? whatcha been up to?…”
Thanks for wirting your article; I am going to put it in my collection.
Debora Norton
Wow, this is cool — your Dad’s hometown! I agree that a place where children can roam free is priceless. Good luck with your research project, Debora and I’m so glad you came across this post! 🙂
We stayed in a similar cabin up the street in Lubec in 2005. It was magical. We went to the same/only diner for every meal and had a great time meeting the locals and hearing their stories. We learned that fishing was only one of a panoply of seasonal jobs that, mixed with a natural and comfortable bartering system, formed the foundation of a work-to-live rather than a live-to-work community. The biggest problems that we heard had to do with the younger generation being bored and leaving as soon as they could. Seems they are more interested in Wi-Fi than fishing. 🙂
Ross: Thanks for this insight into the lives of the locals! I did notice that there are blueberry picking jobs in addition to fishing, but I couldn’t see much else. Everyone I spoke to seemed happy and friendly, but you’re right … I didn’t see too many young people. But I did manage to eek out some wifi at the cottage! 😉
As an avid fisherman (sport only) I can tell you that there is a solitude and mental focus one can achieve being alone in natural world that spawns not from the absence of the city, but is truly magnified by tremendous degrees. One cannot truly appreciate it on a vacation, just as one cannot truly appreciate a city upon a tourists inspection. Once one has made the outdoors and nature a part of their lives however, the appreciation begins to reveal itself, through realizations; of the frivolity of what we have been conditioned to understand as importance, each more vivid than the last.
Hi Fisher Mayne: My husband is a huge outdoorsman — he NEEDS serious time in the wilderness on a regular basis. I think you’ve likely captured why he feels this need so strongly. Thanks for that.