Transylvania is full of surprises. Not only does England’s Prince Charles keep an estate there, here, he also proudly boasts of being a direct descendant of Transylvania’s Vlad the Impaler, better known as the real Dracula.
Brasov – the photo was taken form the very spot where Vlad had the Saxon burghers
who oppressed his countrymen impaled on the hillside. At least they had a view!
Transylvania’s native son was born in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sighisoara in a little yellow house kitty corner from the 13th century clock tower. A time traveller to the early 1430’s would have seen him as a little dark haired boy playing on the cobbles of the square of this picture perfect fairy tale town. Alas, his father, Vlad II Dracul, the prince of Wallachia, was coerced into sending young Vlad off from his idyllic home to the Ottoman Turks as a hostage. Alone, afraid and abused, he returned from Turkey a bitter and ruthless adult who delighted in thrusting sharpened stakes up the posteriors of the much hated Turks. Perhaps if he had been allowed to grow up in Sighisoara he would have been a much different man.
Viewed from my window at the Sighisoara Inn, this medieval house
seemed to be staring right back at me.
The first thing that greets the eye of a visitor is the hillside Citadel surrounded by a 14th century wall sporting five artillery batteries and 14 towers. City defenses were financed by the various medieval trade guilds such as the goldsmiths and tailors, who laboured to outdo each other in the grandeur of their respective defensive bastions.
A tower of Bran Castle, the castle most typically associated with Dracula
though it is uncertain if he ever actually stayed there.
For an overview of the town, visitors should climb the clock tower, enjoying the anachronistic exhibit on native son and noted rocket scientist, Hermann Oberth. Tour the history museum, then take a close up look at the seven 80 cm tall carved wooden figures, Greco-Roman gods and goddesses representing the days of the week. Venus is particularly cute. Allow yourself the time to watch the intricate clockwork mechanism go through its paces on the hour. If you are around the clock at noon or midnight, watch the little drummer come out to announce the AM-PM changeover.
Courtyard of Bran Castle, another 15th century castle with Dracula associations
Next mount the 172 covered steps to the Church on the Hill, being sure to wander around the ancient cemetery (try it at night for a real thrill). Visit the Church of the Dominican Monastery and admire the statue of Vlad Tepes (the Impaler) who is an admired folk hero to the Romanians. Go on to the yellow house on the corner where Vlad Tepes was born and see the murals depicting mustachioed Vlad II Dracul, Dracula’s Daddy. The building is now home to the Casa Dracula restaurant and bar (with various Dracula themed wines and liquors). Upstairs you can see the coffin and curtain bedecked rooms where the Transylvanian Society of Dracula has wont to meet. If you are lucky (or unlucky depending on your perspective) the coffin in the anteroom may be occupied when you enter.
Hunyadi castle, Transylvania, where I partied away Halloween night.
Dracula was imprisoned here by the Hungarians.
Afterwards sample some of the Transylvanian tuica, a potent fruit brandy made from plums, pears or apples. It is very tasty and goes down deceptively easy. Then go for an amble through the 800 year old oak trees of the Breite Ancient Oak Tree Reserve.
Be sure to stay the night at the Sighisoara Inn. My room looked out over a scene direct from the Middle Ages with crows swarming the towers of the church on the hill and an ancient house with two eye-like window slits that seemed to stare straight at me. If you are lucky there will be a witch trial in the court yard of the inn. Well-acted by local talent, this witch trial may have a happy ending.
The courtyard of Hunyadi Castle. When they were renovating the castle they found the 400 year old
remains of a woman under the eaves. Her head had been spiked and her body stashed there.
Photo Credits
Photos by George Burden – All Rights Reserved
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