A restrained air of excitement permeated our group as we penetrated deeper into the musty tunnels of the 2,000-year-old catacombs. Only a select few were allowed into this ancient burial ground, a subterranean city of the dead with streets and doors leading into mostly pagan tombs. I halted at one tomb decorated with a mosaic that looked remarkably Christian as it was graced with a haloed male figure. But, no, this was an image of the pagan god Solus Invictus, the “unconquered sun,” sporting his trademark corona.
We passed many more tombs, finally arriving at our destination. This was not an elaborate grave, but rather one that would have suited an ordinary fisherman such as might be found in my home province of Nova Scotia. However, the simple fisherman to whom this sepulcher belonged was St. Peter, the right-hand man of Jesus Christ. The story of its discovery, and of the reputed relics of St. Peter, would be worthy of a sequel to Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code.
Many meters above us, unwitting masses of people trudged through the nave and transept of St. Peter’s, the huge basilica dedicated to this humble fisherman. Millions each year view the art treasures that fill this monument to the man most Catholics consider the first pope, as well as the “rock” upon which the early church was founded.
A marker erected not long after Peter’s death (reputedly at the hands of Nero Caesar) identifies this as the apostle’s grave. Peter had travelled to Rome to spread the gospel and had ended up being crucified himself. It is said he requested that he be crucified upside down, as he was not worthy to die in the same manner as his master.
If I had X-ray vision and stared directly at the roof of the burial chamber, I would have seen above me the chapel built by the Roman Emperor Constantine in the 4th century AD and dedicated to St. Peter. Beyond that, I would view the elaborate Baldacchino, a Baroque bronze masterpiece serving as the canopy for the High Altar. Higher yet I would spy the magnificent dome of St. Peter’s Basilica, designed by Michelangelo.
Finding A Saint
The pious always believed the altar of St. Peter’s was erected above the actual tomb of Peter. But the cognoscenti merely smiled, considering this an improbable fairy tale.
However, in 1939 a team of Jesuit archeologists began excavations under the foundations of the cathedral, discovering a catacomb of ancient mausoleums. They worked diligently as fascism rose and was quelled, as occupying armies moved into and departed Rome, and as peace was re-established.
They continued to work and in 1949 were astounded to discover a small monument dating from the 2nd century, which clearly identified the tomb of St. Peter.
Further excavations found bones that were initially identified as those of a man in his 60’s, about the age Peter would have been if crucified under Nero. In 1950 Pope Pius XII stunned the world with a radio broadcast announcing the find.
Feelings of elation were later replaced by consternation when it was discovered that the bones, tentatively identified as St. Peter’s, were actually the remains of an older man, a younger man, a horse, a pig and a chicken.
Meanwhile, Margherita Guarducci, an epigraphist studying the excavations, made an unusual discovery. She stumbled onto evidence that in 1942 a second tomb had been discovered but its existence had been kept secret. Her research showed that the Vatican supervisor, Monsignor Kaas, had become disenchanted with the Jesuit archeologists’ endeavors, and had independently discovered and opened the tomb in 1942. He subsequently hid the skeleton he found within and swore his assistants to secrecy.
Secret Revealed
Guarducci initially said nothing of her find until after Kaas had died and a family friend was elected pope. Now feeling obliged to reveal the secret, she led the new pope, Paul VI, to the hiding place. The relics were forensically examined and were verified to be those of a man in his 60’s. In 1968, the Pope confidently announced to the world that the remains of St. Peter had been found.
This pronouncement still remains controversial. Many feel the archeological dig was so compromised, that there is great doubt as to whether these remains are indeed those of St. Peter. Few dispute the evidence, however, that the tomb of St. Peter has truly been found.
Each year a limited number of visitors are allowed to visit the tomb. To do so a request must be made well in advance. Visitors must be older than 15 years of age. The request should include the exact number of visitors, their names, language and the time period in which the visit will be made. This information can be forwarded by mail to: Excavations Office, Fabbrica of St. Peter, 00120, Vatican City, or the request may be made by e-mail to: scavi@fsp.va. Please note: cameras are not allowed.
While at the Vatican visitors should also have a good look at both the inside and the outside of the magnificent basilica dedicated to St. Peter. If you are feeling energetic you can climb to the top of Michelangelo’s famous dome for a panoramic view of St. Peter’s Square and the Papal Gardens.
If you time a visit to coincide with a papal audience, be prepared for crowds, but also for a very special experience (and I’m Anglican!)
The Vatican Museum has literally kilometers of halls lined with art treasures, culminating with the Sistine Chapel’s incomparable ceiling mural by Michelangelo. Those who viewed the chapel prior to the cleaning and restoration in the early ‘90s will be astounded by the vibrant colors and detail now revealed.
The Vatican is a must-see for any visitor to Rome. You don’t have to be Catholic, or even religious, to be awed by this little city-state. With planning you can also be one of the fortunate few allowed to enter the tomb of its patron saint.
For further information, visit The Vatican’s Excavations Office.
Photo Credits
Photo #1: “St. Peter’s Tomb and altar,” by Samuraijohnny. Creative commons Flickr – Some rights reserved
Photo #2: “St. Peter’s Basilica from Vatican Gardens,” by Randy OHC. Creative Commons Flickr – Some rights reserved
Photo #3: “Vatican City,” by Geekgirlnyc. Creative Commons Flickr – Some rights reserved
This article first appeared in the November 21, 2006 issue of The Medical Post.
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