The port of Lorient is perched on the rugged coastline of Western Brittany in the county of Morbihan. Nowadays, it is known for its Interceltic Festival which takes place the last weekend in July and the first week in August every year.
Lorient in Brittany
Lorient should really be written L’Orient (the East) for it was from here that the French East Indies trading company set out on their quest for spices, silks and exotica in the 17th century. Lorient still has vast docks, a yacht basin and fishing port where you can watch the Criee (fish sales) every morning at 6 a.m. and the remains of the German submarine base, important during the last war.
The bands stop and play along the route of the parade.
The Interceltic Festival, started 35 years ago as a showcase of Celtic folklore, and has expanded over the years to include Celts worldwide. It is organised entirely by volunteers whose Breton pride ensures that it is an outstanding success.
The first Sunday starts with a grand parade. Every village in Brittany is represented so there are hundreds of different black serge and velvet costumes lavishly embroidered in
gold thread. The women wear local fine lace head-dresses and the men, broad-brimmed black felt hats with trailing velvet ribbons. Whole families, from grandparents to babes in arms, parade in their folk costumes.
One of the three big spectacular shows at the Interceltic Festival.
Each village has its bagade (pipe band) and dance group. The Highland and Lowland Scots are there too in the dashing tartans of their clans. Scots bands from Canada, New Zealand and Australia skirl and drone, Welsh choirs chorus and descant, the Irish dance down the street, Flatley style, accompanied by their flutes and fiddles and the costumed Manx march, Galicians and Asturians strut and toot. It’s a symphony of sound and colour.
The following ten days have different programmes on offer: recitals, competitions, Fest Noz (Breton Country dances), master classes in fiddle, pipe and harp, choral concerts
and dance classes.
Every evening is a gourmet treat with Breton pancakes, Breton beer and cider, fresh grilled sardines, tuna, Asturian bean stews and other Celtic delicacies, all at a reasonable price in the Village Celte. There is singing in the pubs and dancing in the streets. Jazz bands, folk and pop groups play in the bars and cafes.
Children in traditional dress at the Interceltic Festival.
Three large venues, Stade du Moustoir, Palais des Congress, and the Grand Theatre, cater for big spectacular shows like Nuits Interceltiques, Nuits Magiques, bag-pipe competitions and fireworks. The crowds are jolly and not rowdy. Every morning, Lorient is sparkling clean and tourists and Celts alike are ready for a packed programme visiting exhibitions and souvenir stalls. Welsh artists, weavers and potters are there, purveyors of Scots wool pullovers, kilts, smoked salmon, haggis, Asturian cider, air dried hams, Breton white wine, smoked tuna, lace, art, jewellery, DVD’s and books.
Morbihan is rich in historic monuments, restored villages, splendid beaches and plenty of activities for the family. Make sure you have at least two good maps – the 308 local Finistere/Morbihan, and the more detailed IGN Lorient/Vannes which is good for avoiding traffic jams and finding small villages.
The yacht basin in Lorient, Brittany.
The following tours are worth doing during the day when you have had your fill of Celtic stalls and music competitions!
TOUR ONE
From Lorient, take the D145 to Inzinzac-Lochrist, then the D23 and D159 to Poul-Fetan. This 16th century Breton village, abandoned in the 1970’s, has been restored, complete with costumed people working in the forge, bakers, and cider makers. Take your picnic and buy snacks or eat in their restaurant. Melrand, another fascinating historic village site from AD 1000. is back along the D23. Follow this to the D2 until you come to Melrand, You can return via the D142 to Baud. From here take the N24 through Languidic to Brandeirion where there is a weaving school and museum. The spinners from here also appear at Poul-Fetan certain afternoons of the week.
TOUR TWO
Another possibility is to visit Port Louis, the tiny fortified fishing port opposite Lorient on the D781. It was built between 1590 and 1637. Stroll around the remparts and, inside the citadel, visit the East Indies museum which recounts the growth of trade with India, Africa and China and has some superb model boats and old charts. The little town has pretty old streets and a good beach. From here, go along the D781 to Riantec on to the peninsula (bird sanctuary) to the Maison de l’Ile de Kerner and see where oysters are raised. Inside the café, ancient mariners recount their days at sea.
TOUR THREE
About 15 kms from Lorient, Hennebont, a 15th century walled town with gardens along the ramparts, is home to the French national stud (Haras National)installed inside the ruins of an old abbey. They breed race-horses, dray horses, trotters, ponys, and stallions. A guided visit explains the working day of the huge stables, the horses, the saddle-makers, black-smiths and farriers. Every Tuesday and Thursday at 3.30pm the horses are paraded and every evening there is a spectacular horse show. From Hennebont, take the D26 to Pont Scorff and visit the Odyssaum where wild salmon are raised. An information centre is situated along the riverbank and an excellent restaurant, overlooking the dams along the river, serves great salmon dishes.
Before leaving Pont Scorff visit the zoo which breeds Black Rhinos and elephants. The town hall contains a small museum dedicated to the art of washing and ironing with a fine collection of old irons. From Pont Scorff take the direction of Gestel and Guidel, cross the N175 and visit the big junk sale at the Emmaus shop on your way back to Lorient. This is to be found at a little hamlet called Cinq Chemins but is only open on weekends. Then, take the road to Ploemeur, follow the signs for Lomener where there is an annual “pardon” in the first week end of August. This is a fisherman’s festival where the decorated boats sail out preceded by the priest in his boat, blessing the water and thanking God for the catches. On the Saturday evening, there is a huge meal on offer and dancing till dawn. On the Sunday there is a celebratory Mass and parade.
WHERE TO STAY
Novotel –Centre Hotelier de Kerpont-Bellevue,BP 10-56850, Caudan. Just outside Lorient.off the N165. Swimming Pool and restaurants. Late night buses available to and from centre.
Tel: 0033-297-89-21-21. Fax:00330297-89-21-24. www.accorhotels.com
Hotel Mercure, 31 place Jules Ferry, 56100 Lorient. Town centre. Parking on street.
Tel: 0033-297-21-35-73. Fax: 0033-297-64-48-62. ho873@accor.com
.
WHERE TO EAT
La Taverne de Maitre Kanter, 23 place Auguste Nayel. Open 12 –12 big outside terrasse and reasonable prices. Good seafood dishes.
Village Celte-Quai de Rohan –ticket system at entrance to tents and stalls with great selection of grilled food, beers, ciders, desserts and coffee. Big shared picnic tables.
Creperie –Fleur de Ble Noir, 3 place Polig-Montjarret, Lorient. all types of pancakes, salads, desserts. Bowls ((bolees) of cider to drink.
WHAT TO SEE
Horse Show at Hennebont –French National Stud Farm.
Port Louis – fortified port and its East India Company Museum.
Poul Fetan – restored sixteenth Century village with working forge, bakery, cottages and spinners.
Pont Aven – well-preserved small town where Gauguin and other artists lived.
Photo Credits
All photos © Julia McLean except for the first photo, “Reflexes in Lorient” Cabruta08 @ Flickr.com. Creative Commons. Some Rights Reserved.
Recent Julia McLean Articles:
- Old Dog - New Pavlovian tricks
- The Herd Instinct
- Luke Skywalker and the Desert Fox - Part Two
- The Desert Fox - Part One
- Kingdom of the Fungi: Part Two
Please Share Your Thoughts - Leave A Comment!