St. Thomas: More Than Just Beaches

Sandra Phinney explores the paradise of St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands and discovers hidden gems beyond the beautiful beaches.

It’s been said about planning a trip that you should lay out all your clothes and all your money and then take half the clothes and twice the money. Sound advice if you’re planning a trip to St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands. With sunny skies every day, you just need swim wear and a couple pieces of light, comfy clothing. But with more than 400 shops and one-of-a-kind buys in St. Thomas, extra cash would come in handy.

Gautam Daswani displays the amazing jewels found in St. Thomas shops. © Sandra Phinney.

For example, in the historic district of Charlotte Amalie, you’ll find Main Street—also known as the “Miracle Mile.” If you like jewellery, your head will spin for choice. I know very little about baubles, but Gautam Daswani at Royal Caribbean was happy to explain the finer points of diamonds (no pun intended.) In the process, he showed me some stunning pieces made from rare champagne- or pink-coloured diamonds. Although some fetch upwards of a million dollars, there’s plenty of jewellery for under $60. Bonus: the staff will make you feel like a million bucks whether you browse or buy.

Gladys in her café, with the mouthwatering fare of St. Thomas. © Sandra Phinney.

Slipping in and out of the alleys between Main Street and Veteran’s Drive on the waterfront, you’ll discover other gems, like Gladys’ Café. Gladys Isles is an institution. She’s also charming and serves tasty local foods at modest prices. Conch Chowder, Kalaloo Soup and Grilled Mahi-Mahi are a few of her specialties. She also sells bottles of her famous Hot Mango Sauce (provided at each table free for sampling).

Zora Galvin of St. Thomas makes handcrafted leather sandals that take two days to complete and keep customer coming back. © Sandra Phinney

In the West End of town, you’ll find a place called Zora St. Thomas. I was so impressed with the owner, Zora Galvin, (a legend in her own time and maker of custom leather sandals) that it’s the first place I’ll visit the next time I’m there. Why? She needs two days to complete a pair of sandals and by the time I discovered her shop, I only had a few hours left in St. Thomas. But I enjoyed watching here measure and work on sandals for customers; and while I was there, I met someone from the U. S. who came in with a pair of sandals she’d bought seven years ago. Said she’d worn them non-stop yet the tops looked brand new. The problem was she had worn out the bottoms — and had come back to get new soles as she didn’t trust any other shoemaker to do the job.

St. Thomas Synagogue (Congregation of Blessing and Peace and Loving Deeds) © Sandra Phinney

History buffs will love the self guided downtown historic tour, found in a publication called This Week (available all over the island.) Fifteen sites are located within easy walking distance of each other. The entire tour is a delight, but the highlight for me was the St. Thomas Synagogue (Congregation of Blessing and Peace and Loving Deeds — how lovely is that!). The synagogue has a thick layer of white sand over its marble floor in memory of the Jews who covered their floors with sand to muffle their prayers during the Spanish Inquisition. There are lots of stories here, told by the rabbi, on a video in the back of the synagogue.

Of course, St. Thomas is world-famous for its beaches; there are 20 within a 30-minute drive (or less) of Charlotte Amalie. Although Magens Bay is the largest and is world renowned, I was drawn to the less populated beaches like Brewer’s Bay and Little Magens. (Note, the locals will tell you how to get there. It’s too complicated to explain, but easy to do.) Although the rage seems to be paddle surfing and jet skiing these days, I must say I preferred to curl up with a book and listen to the swoosh-swoosh of the surf.

Photo Credits

All photos © Sandra Phinney. All Rights Reserved.

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